THINKING ABOUT COLOURS

Choosing the colour that best suits your home, your garden, and your taste is probably the most critical of the aesthetic decisions you’ll make about your driveway or garden paving.

Do you want to match the colour of your house, or create contrast?
Do the colours of your patio need to pick up on the prevailing tones of your garden, other hard landscaped areas, or out buildings?
Do you need to consider different colours to create guidence?
Do you have larger areas that need to be broken up or have variegation added for visual impact?

Buildland has an incredibly diverse spectrum of colours across its natural stone, porcelain, concrete flag, concrete block paving and aggregate ranges – not to mention textures – that can be mixed and matched to suit any visual and practical requirement, large or small.

Get your first impression through photos, but always choose from actual samples
There’s no real substitute for looking at the ‘real thing’, and if ou’re investing in a new driveway or patio, it’s an absolute must to make your final choices from real product samples. Samples can be ordered through your nearest Buildland branch. Alternatively, why not ask your contractor if they’ve already used the products you’re interested in on a project nearby?

Get samples to be colour-sure
You can quickly and easily obtain a product sample in your desired colour from your nearest Buildland branch.

Simply visit www.buildland.co.uk/contact-us for a guide on how your product could look once installed. however, variations in colour are still possible due to a number of different factors:
All concrete products are manufactured from a mixture of sand, cement, aggregate, and pigment, which can give variations in colour mix shades from batch to batch and site to site.
Aesthetics account for a huge amount when making a porcelain decision. A good porcelain supplier such as Buildland will be able to tell you eactly how many different surface aesthetics there are in a specific product. Depending on the style, the greater the number of variations, the better the look. Ensure the more exotic patterns have plenty of alternatives.
Natural Stone products will vary in colour depending upon where it’s quarried and how the stone is processed prior to delivery.
These variations are impossible to prevent, but do bring character, style, and individuality. When you choose a colour from a photograph, there are many factors that can change how the product looks; the time of day the photograph was actually taken or climatic conditions, for example. These factors can affect how our products are viewed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

TOP TIPS

• Ensure you follow our guidelines to achieve patio success

• View as large an area of your chosen paving as possible before purchasing to ensure you are happy with your choice.

• Inspect your product to make sure you are completely happy before you lay. We advise that dry laying products before laying them permanently is the ideal way to do this.

• Always lay paving on a full bed of mortar and never use the spot bed method – see our step-by-step laying guides for more advice on this.

• Never butt joint paving when laying – you should always use an appropriate joint for your chosen product. Buildland products should be laid with a minimum 1 0mm joint.

• Always use a neat SBR bonding agent on the back of natural stone, and always use a slurry primer on the back of porcelain tiles.

• Always mix packs whilst laying to achieve an overall blended appearance.

• Never use brick acid or acidic cleaning products on natural stone. Always check that cleaning products are suitable for use on porcelain.

• Ask your Buildland stockist for advice on sealants and joining compounds.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HELPFUL INFORMATION

A variety of resources to help you choose, install, and maintain your Buildland patio kit

To support the information provided in this brocure, we also have a variety of information guides avaliable on our website which contain more detail about our products, laying guidelines, and maintenance advice.

TECHNICAL GUIDE

Our technical guide provides detailed information about Buildland products including weights, sizes, colour variations, and wet/dry comparisons for each product. It also contains a comprehensive selection of laying patterns for many of our products.

MAINTENANCE AND LAYING GUIDE

Includes our step by step laying guide for natural stone and porcelain, top do’s and dont’s for installing your patio and advice on how to keep your Buildland patio looking its very best.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Our troubleshooting guide offers detailed advice and information about identifying various natural occurrences and installation issues when using our products.

LAYING PATTERNS

There is a small selection of laying patterns avaliable on our website. Our online library of laying patterns contains a variety of different options for our products. Please note that all measurements are approximate only, and all laying patterns may or may not include joints.

Pack size information for each product is outlined on the product pages throughout this brochure as well as on product pages on our website. For further technical information on our products, please visit our helpful guides page on our website, or call our customer service head office on 01527 519 444

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

STEP-BY-STEP LAYING GUIDELINES NATURAL STONE

Tools needed for both natural stone and porclain:

• Gloves & Eye protection Face mask
• Knee pads & steel toe boots Ear defenders
• Slate marker
• Spade
• Pointing tool
• Trowel
• Rubber mallet
• Soft broom
• Compactor plate
• Tape measure
• Pegs & line
• Spirit level
• Hammer & Chisel/Disc cutter Tile cutter (Bench saw)

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

1. CHECK YOUR PRODUCT
Before any work is carried out, each piece of natural stone should be inspected prior to laying as pieces will vary. No returns can be accepted once the product is installed, so it is important to confirm you are happy with your product before proceeding. When work begins, ensure the area is cleared of all vegetation and debris. Then, ideally using a scaled drawing of your planned area, you can start plot pointing by marking out the space using pegs and a string line.

2. PREPARE YOUR BASE
Dig the ground to a depth of approximately 150mm below the finished patio level (or 200mm deep below the finished driveway level), making sure the soil is compact.

3. LAY YOUR HARDCORE
In the now excavated area spread a layer approximately 1 00mm deep
of hardcore (or 150mm deep for driveways). Remember to leave room for the thickness of the flags and 30-50mm of mortar. Compact the layer of hardcore thoroughly, ideally using a plate compactor. Foundations must not be laid on water saturated ground as they may sink in time, creating uneven paving. Extra drainage may be required.

4. LAY YOUR SLABS
Once happy with the layout, using your line and pegs as a reference, you can start laying your flags down on a full bed of slightly wet mortar mix 30-50mm deep. For the mortar mix we advise 1 part cement to 5 parts sharp sand (some contractors use a 50/50 mixture of building and sharp sand). All products must be laid on a full bed of mortar, especially when laying a driveway. A full bed of mortar is key to help reduce moisture transparency or discolouration, as well as to provide a solid base for the patio.
An SBR bonding agent is an adhesion, waterproof barrier that should be used to help the slabs adhere to the mortar bed and can be used in conjunction with our Universal Slurry Primer Pro (USPP). Our USPP only requires water to mix, see page 138 for details, (or a Slurry Primer mix using cement powder, water and an outdoor based SBR bonding agent to a creamy consistency) that is be painted onto the back of each slab with a thickness of 1 -2mm before laying when using natural stone (see overleaf for specific advice on laying porcelain).

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Granite ice and granite frost
These products sometimes absorb colour impurities from ordinary portland cement (OPC). We strongly recommend substituting white cement in the mortar to reduce colour leeching and staining, as well as our Universal Slurry Primer Pro in conjunction with a SBR bonding agent. Lay granite with the textured slip resistant face upwards.

Granite – all colours
Depending on site conditions, moisture coming through from the mortar bed below can create moisture transparency (dark/damp patchiness on the installed product) which is a natural drying process that can affect all slabs (particularly granite). This is completely normal and should dry out over time.

Veining in granite products
Our granite products may display natural veins and patterns which may not be visible when the product is dry. It is advised that when the stone is dry laid before fixing you should wet the stone to ensure you are happy with the appearance, as veins/patterns become more apparent when wet. Veins are a natural feature of the product and are often mistaken as cracks – veins should not be considered a def s they will not affect the durability of the product.

Circle features
These should be dry laid before final positioning on a full bed of mortar, starting from the centre of the circle outward.

When laying a driveway
A minimum of 150mm compressed hardcore foundation must be used before laying products for a driveway (only suitable products to be used). It is essential that products are laid on a full bed of wet mortar for driveways.

Calibrated products are subject to a minimum of +/-3mm variation.
Due to the composition of natural stone, colour variations may occur after installation.
Some delamination (when riven parts of the stone flake off) may occur after laying – this is perfectly normal and tends to happen near the riven part of the slab.
As with all Buildland products the spot-laying method is not suitable – always use a full bed of mortar.

We would strongly recommend that gloves, eye protection, face mask, knee pads, steel toe boots, suitable protective clothing & ear defenders are used accordingly. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health and safety, legislation. For advice, telephone 0300 003 17 47 or visit www.hse.gov.uk
Always check the suitability of ANY cleaning solution with the manufacturer prior to use Failure to do so may result in permanent damage to the product. Acidic cleaners or brick acid should never be used on natural stone products as they will damage the stone.

STEP-BY-STEP LAYING GUIDELINES PORCELAIN

We have created a step-by-step laying guide specifically for porcelain products to help you get the best results when laying. Please ensure that you follow guidelines when laying Buildland porcelain products.

1. CHECK YOUR PRODUCT
Ensure that you check your product before laying – we recommend dry laying a random selection of your tiles (from more than one pallet where applicable) to ensure that you are satisfied with the colour variation in the tiles. Claims or returns based on colour variation will not be accepted once the product has been laid. Ensure that whilst working with porcelain tiles that they are rested on wooden battens to prevent any edge chipping.

2. PREPARE YOUR BASE
Prior to installation, all necessary groundwork should be completed. This includes ensuring there is a sub-base of at least 50 -1 00mm thick of type 1 material (hard-core) which has been sufficiently compacted down, with a suitable water drainage fall (a fall of 1 :60 is usually adequate).

3. PRIME YOUR SLABS
Apply Buildland primer (or a Slurry Primer mixed using cement powder, water and an outdoor based SBR bonding agent to a creamy consistency) to the back of each tile before it is laid to help the paving adhere to the bed.
Paving slabs may need to be handled by 2 people (the larger sized slabs). When applying slurry primer, ensure that you rest the tile on wooden battens to prevent any chipping.
Slurry primer should be mixed using water, cement powder, and an outdoor suitable SBR bonding agent.
Mix the slurry primer to a creamy consistency.
Paint each tile with slurry primer as you lay them, not all at once before you begin laying. The slurry primer on the back of the tile must still be wet when it is laid down, therefore you should not prime all slabs first before you start laying. This will ensure that the tile adheres to the mortar bed correctly. If any slurry primer is on the face-upside of the slab, immediately wash away the residue with water as you work.

4. USE A FULL BED OF MORTAR
Just like our natural stone products, Buildland porcelain must be laid on a full wet bed of mortar. We recommend a mixture of a moist consistency (rather than runny) with approx. 4: 1 sharp sand to cement.

5. LAY YOUR SLABS
It is essential that each tile is tapped down to ensure as much of the tile as possible meets the mortar. When laying your project, ensure that you mix tiles to achieve an overall blended appearance. While the finishes of porcelain have less surface variation than natural stone, they are still designed with a level of variation to add a range of texture to their surface. If within the selection of tiles, you encounter any repeat patterns, we suggest that you rotate slabs 90/1 80 degrees to minimise the appearance of repetition (this may be more prevalent in tiles which have a more extensive surface pattern e.g., Quartz Grigioni or Universal Oak).

6. CUTTING PORCELAIN
Porcelain can be cut with a disc cutter fitted with a suitable-for-porcelain diamond blade (this must be a petrol disc cutter as you must feed the disc with water to cut). However, for neater and more accurate cutting, we recommend using a suitable water-fed tile bridge saw. Ensure that appropriate protective clothing is worn while operating machinery.

7. CHECK YOUR JOINTS
Allow for 1 0-1 2mm+ /- approx. joints when laying the tiles. We suggest an outdoor jointing compound (suitable for porcelain) should be used with our porcelain products – please speak to your merchant or landscaper for the most appropriate jointing compound for your project. As previously stated, Buildland porcelain products are not designed to be butt jointed.

8. IMPORTANT – CLEAN THE JOB
It is particularly important to work cleanly when laying porcelain, both during and after installation. Once the job is completed, additional cleaning may be required if any residue remains, particularly from jointing compounds. Ensure that the jointing compound has set sufficiently and clean the tiles with a suitable residue remover (depending upon which jointing compound has been used). Any residue left over from the laying process must be remove s soon as possible – failure to do so may result in staining on t surface of the tiles. If your porcelain has been laid in conjunction with any natural stone, ensure that the porcelain cleaner/residue remover you are using does not contain any acid and check t e are suitable for porcelain. Any cleaners containing acid will cause damage to natural stone.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Due to the nature of the production of porcelain, there is a limit to the number of repeated surface textures which are produced for each colour (with the number of repeats varying depending upon range). Whilst we endeavour to maximise the variety of textures within each order, there may be several repeats within your order, particularly if you are laying a large area of porcelain. Refer to step S opposite for advice on reducing the appearance of repeated slabs.
In porcelain tiles, there may be slight subtle differences in surface texture and finish between tiles. These differences may appear exaggerated in direct sunlight. This is due to minor variations in conditions which may occur during the manufacturing process. Any difference between tiles will not affect the slip rating or durability of the product and is purely aesthetic.
There will be subtle variation in our porcelain products, intended to mirror the variations found in natural stone products. Porcelain products, much like any other manufactured pro oct are made in batches. There can
be slight shade variations between batches – please consider this when purchasing for the same project on separate occasions. To ensure that your patio will have an overall blended appearance, always mix from multiple pallets when laying rather than laying one pallet at a time.

Remember: to provide suitable run-off during wet weather a fall angle must be considered. Falls must be angled away from buildings or structures at an incline of 1 :60 or steeper. An adequate drainage outlet source should be present at the end of the patio’s run off edge. A planning officer may need to be consulted for further advice.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO LAY ARTIFICAL GRASS

Tools needed:

• Sharp Craft Knife
• Hammer
• Adhesive (if joining)
• Adhesive Spreader
• Jointing tape
• Spade
• Wheelbarrow
• Length of wood
• Treated Wood Frame
• Motorised Turf Cuter
• Motorised Plate Compactor

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Step 1:
Strip turf, removing all the grass down by an average thickness of 40mm with a motorised turf cutter or spade.

Step 2:
Spread and level 35mm of sharp builder’s sand.

Step 3:
Compact sand using either a builder’s plank and sledgehammer or motorised plate compactor. Resmooth sand after completion.

Step 4:
Roll out weed retaining membrane on top of compacting sand. Overlap joints by 300mm leaving 50mm short of the grass edge. Peg down the weed membrane into the compacted sand.

Step 5:
Roll out grass to cover areas. Trim edges of grass rolls using a craft knife. It is easier to cut grass rolls from underneath.

Step 6:
Ensure grass rolls are butted together making sure no fibred are caught underneath. Lay all rolls in the same direction so the blades of grass all point in the same direction. Apply adhesive onto joining tape and spread along join surface. Place roll edge onto tape, making sure the fibres do not touch the glue. Ruffle the pile to disguise the joint.

Step 7:
Fix down the edge using ground pins (angled to avoid lifting) every 200mm intervals. Ruffle the pile to disguise the pins. Optional: nail the artificial grass to the wooden frame if used or use adhesive to fix the grass to the pegged down weed membrane. If fitting onto a hard surface like concrete, tarmac, or patio, then apply a line of glue along all the edges.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO LAY PAVING

If you have just moved into a new home or are planning a major garden facelift, spend time getting to know the site before designing the paved areas. For example, which parts of the garden are sheltered from the elements and overlooking properties? Where does the sun fall through the day? Is there a slope?

Planning The Patio
The next stage is to draw up a plan of the garden on graph paper, with trees, shrubs, walls, and other fixed features shown. You don’t have to be too exact but an accurate plan of a large project like a patio is the best way of estimating how much material you need, so it’s time well spent.

Paving Types
Paving has come a long way in the last ten years and there are now styles to suit anything from a cottage garden
to a formal town lay-out. Remember too that flagstone can be expensive and a hard-wearing lawn or shingle is a cheap way of filling areas of a new site for the short term – you can always replace these areas with more exciting options at a later stage.
Remember to include some sort of paving to storage sheds, even if it is just steppingstones. Otherwise, grass will soon become mud in the wetter months.
Plan for features you may want to add later. So, if you are considering a built-in barbecue, pond, or planters, leave a space in whole pavers or slabs so you don’t have too much upheaval when these are added.
Break up large areas of slabs with straight runs of bricks or leave out random slabs and fill with shingle to add interest.
Before starting any work, make sure you check that there are no services i.e., pipes, cables etc. buried in the area.

Step 1:
Areas of heavy use should have a compacted 75mm layer of hardcore below
cement mix. For vehicle use, the hardcore bed should be l 50mm. Hardcore is broken brick and rubble, which is laid over the ground and compacted to provide a firm stable base. The area of the patio multiplied by the thickness of ha core needed will tell you the volume of hardcore required but remember to allow a bit extra as it will be compacted.
It is worth hiring a plate vibrator for the preparation stage to ensure that the base is very solid. Once you have prepared the base, begin to lay the flagstones in one corner.

Step 2:

Setting out The Patio
Mark out the site with pegs and string. The pegs should be driven into the ground so that their tops are at the height of the proposed finished level. By setting a peg in each corner, you can then build up a grid of pegs according to how large the patio is.
The level of the patio at the house wall must be at least 150mm below the damp proof course. This is usually visible as an extra wide line of mortar in the brickwork, or, in older houses, you may be able to see the slate used. If your patio is built higher than this, the walls will get damp.

Step 3:
Fall or Slope for drainage
Mark out the site with pegs and string. The pegs should be driven into the ground so that their tops are at the height of the proposed finished level. By setting a peg in each corner, you can then build up a grid of pegs according to how large the patio is.
The level of the patio at the house wall must be at least 150mm below the damp proof course. This is usually visible as an extra wide line of mortar in the brickwork, or, in older houses, you may be able to see the slate used. If your patio is built higher than this, the walls will get damp.

Step 4:
Digging out for the Base
Areas of heavy use should have a compacted 75mm layer of hardcore below the sand/ cement mix. For vehicle use, the hardcore bed should be 150mm. Hardcore is broken brick and rubble, which is laid over the ground and compacted to provide a firm stable base. The area of the patio multiplied by the thickness of hardcore needed will tell you the volume of hardcore required but remember to allow a bit extra as it will be compacted.
It is worth hiring a plate vibrator for the preparation stage to ensure that the base is very solid. Once you have prepared the base, begin to lay the flagstones in one corner.

Step 5:
Laying the slabs
Areas of heavy use should have a compacted 75mm layer of hardcore below the sand/ cement mix. For vehicle use, the hardcore bed should be 150mm. Hardcore is broken brick and rubble, which is laid over the ground and compacted to provide a firm stable base. The area of the patio multiplied by the thickness of hardcore needed will tell you the volume of hardcore required but remember to allow a bit extra as it will be compacted.
It is worth hiring a plate vibrator for the preparation stage to ensure that the base is
very solid. Once you have prepared the base, begin to lay the flagstones in one corner.

Please be aware that this is guidance only, we recommend that you consult on a contractor with experience laying or using the product.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO REMOVE EFFLORESCENCE

White patches appearing on the surface of concrete paving naturally cause concern. However, rarely justified in the long term, as the appearance is normally the result of ‘efflorescence’.

This term is frequently used to describe whitish deposits or stains on building materials. However, there are many forms of efflorescence which have little in common other than the fact that they result in white discolorations. It is worth noting that efflorescence on clay bricks is formed by a totally different process than which occurs on concrete products.
Efflorescence as generally found on concrete paving products can be categorized as ‘lime bloom’, which is a deposit apparent either in the form of white patches or as a more general lightening in colour. When the latter effect is seen, it is often misinterpreted as a fading or ‘washing out’ of the colour from the concrete.
Lime bloom, when it occurs, is a natural phenomenon brought about because of the normal chemical reaction between cement and water. A product of this reaction is calcium hydroxide, ‘lime’, which is slightly soluble in water and which, under certain conditions, can migrate through damp concrete to the surface, where it in turn reacts with atmospheric carbon dioxide to produce a deposit of calcium carbonate crystals.
This deposit gives rise to the white patches or overall lightening referred to earlier, but it is normally extremely thin. When it is wetted, the deposit becomes transparent and seemingly disappears.
The occurrence of lime bloom on the surface of concrete paving products is a spasmodic and unpredictable phenomenon but a significant factor is, nevertheless, the weather. Lime bloom forms more readily when concrete becomes wet and dries slowly and therefore occurrences are more frequent in winter months. It is generally only likely to be brought about in the early life of concrete paving products (bricks, blocks, slabs, and pavers) and materials which have been in place for a year or more without experiencing lime bloom are unlikely phenomenon is temporary and will generally disappear with time. It is superficial and does not affect strength or durability.

Removal of Lime Bloom
Lime bloom can generally expect to disappear over a period, depending on the environment to which the paving is subjected. Rainwater, being slightly acidic, dissolves the deposits and, where paving is fully exposed to the we f er, and efflorescence could typically be expected to disappear with time. Removal would be accelerated with abrasion caused by pedestrian or vehicular trafficking.

Most proprietary cleaning treatments contain acids and detergents, so it is important to ensure that the
manufacturers’ directions (and environmental regulations) are carefully followed. Incorrect or careless cleaning may result in injury or damage and discolouration to the surface of the concrete paving. It is a good precaution to carry out a test in a small and inconspicuous area before undertaking cleaning over the complete area of paving in question.
The procedure is best carried out in cool conditions. When the paving is hot, rapid evaporation may lead to a recurrence of deposits. It must also be remembered that acid attacks concrete and its over application may alter the appearance of the paving.
Once the paving is dry, the joints should be inspected, and sand reapplied where necessary.
Long term experience suggests that it is unlikely that lime bloom will recur after removal with a cleaning treatment as outlined above. It is not possible, however, to give a guarantee against recurrence.
A further possibility which may be considered upon completion of successful cleaning is the use of a polymer sealer. Such sealers may enhance or change the colour of the paving, and the overall appearance is likely to be markedly different as a result. They may inhibit the formation of efflorescence, but there have been instances of recurrence of lime bloom, generally where the paving has been still damp, or a poor-quality sealer has been used.
Therefore, where polymer sealers are to be used, the paving surface should be completely dry and free from efflorescence before their application, which should be strictly in accordance with the sealer manufacturer’s instructions.

Product Recommendation
Buildland Ltd. offers an effective efflorescence removal product, which also reduces the possibility of the recurrence of white deposits. This product is designed as a long-term solution to a difficult and recurring issue, making the salts water-soluble so that they may be washed away naturally or with a power washer. Unlike traditional acid removers which dissolve the surface of the paving, therefore making it more porous, Buildland’s efflorescence remover does not attack the substrate, promoting the longevity of the surface.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO CHOOSE A PAVING PATTERN

Block paving is a practical way to pave any sized area. When laid properly it’s strong enough to use for large driveways but also, can look very attractive when used for paths and patios. We can help you choose the design that will work best in your outdoor space. Paving blocks can be laid in a variety of patterns that not only suit your personal style preference but also work
well according to what they’ll be used for. Courtyards and patios look great in the stretcher or basketweave pattern.

Stretcher
The stretcher pattern places blocks in straight lines with each row slightly off set to
the next. This design is great for curved pathways and patio areas.

Basketweave
The basketweave design is created by placing two horizontally laid bricks followed
by two vertically laid bricks. It’s a great-looking design which although not ideal on
a driveway, will be perfect in a courtyard garden.

Herringbone
The herringbone pattern is laid from the corner with bricks at right angles to each other. Each block interlocks creating a strong structure which is ideal for driveways
and areas which take a lot of wear.

Herringbone with header
A border, or header, is a row of vertically laid bricks, also known as a simple stack pattern, around the outside of your pattern. This works very well with a Herringbone design.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO REPOINT BRICKWORK

With exposure to the elements, the mortar holding bricks and stone together on an external wall can often start to crumble and fall out. On older properties, the pointing is often a harder mortar than the bonding mortar, once this is dislodged, the softer bonding mortar will become exposed and wear away quite quickly.
This sort of damage occurs over a long period of time; however, it is important to repair the pointing as necessary otherwise water will increasingly penetrate and damage the wall.
If the damage is limited to a small area, just that area can be repaired; however, the repointed area will often stand out. Generally, the whole wall face will weather in a similar way; therefore, the whole wall will need repointing at the same time.
Repointing can be time consuming as it may involve the use of scaffolding or access towers when working above head height, however, to achieve a good overall appearance it’s worth the effort.

Step 1:
Cleaning Out Old Mortar
Work down the wall (this will avoid any debris falling on to areas which have already been repointed), working on about 3 rows of bricks at a time. On soft mortar use a hook or old screwdriver to rack out the old mortar, alternatively use a ‘plugging’ chisel and club hammer – start by taking out the vertical joints, then work on the horizontal joints. If you clear the horizontal joints first, you will risk chipping into the brick when you come to clear the vertical joints.
Remove the old mortar back to a depth of 8 to 12mm from the front face (at least equal to the width of the joints) – where the old mortar is loose beyond this depth, clean it back until fairly firm mortar is located. Some old brickwork can have very narrow joints in places – where the hook or chisel is too wide, use a masonry saw, or hacksaw blade to remove the mortar.
Don’t try to speed up the job by using a disc cutter or angle grinder, it is impossible to keep the disc lined up with the mortar beds and every miss alignment will damage the neighbouring brick.
Make sure that the old mortar is removed from the top, bottom, and sides of the bricks so that the new mortar will adhere to them.

Any damaged or loose bricks should be replaced before proceeding with the repointing. When refitting bricks, make sure

Step 2:
The Repointing Mortar Mix

The usual mortar for repointing is either a 6: l: l mix of builder’s sand, hydrated lime and cement or a 3: l mix of sharp sand and hydrated lime. Measure the amounts carefully so that each batch will set to a consistent colouring.
Don’t use a simple sand and cement 1x as it will trap water in the wall and any frost will loosen it; also, it sets too quickly and forms weak bonds to the bricks.
Only mix up a small amount of mortar at a time as repointing is time consuming so you won’t do a very large area before the mortar will start to go off.
The consistency of the mortar is very important. If it is too wet it is hard to apply and will stain the face of the bricks. It needs to be firm enough to cut it into narrow strips with the trowel and the strips stay in shape. As a test, the mortar should stand up on the trowel without sagging. Do not attempt to re-point if heavy rain or frost are expected.

Remove all dust and debris from the joints using a large soft brush, and then dampen the joints using either a wetted soft brush or a fine watering spray – you need to damp the existing mortar at the back of the joints as well as the sides of the bricks.
Put a small amount of mortar on a hawk and, using a pointing trowel, flatten the mortar so that it is about as high as the joints between the bricks with a fairly straight edge on one side.
Repoint the bed (horizontal) joints first and then the head (vertical) joints working downwards and sideways. Concentrate on about one square metre of wall at a time.

Tilt the hawk away from the wall and use the trowel to chop off a strip of mortar about the width of the pointing from the front edge of the mortar. Move the trowel towards the wall at the same time pulling the hawk away from the wall. A narrow strip of mortar will now be on the edge of the trowel.
Keeping the trowel at an angle, move the mortar to the joint to be filled.
Use a twisting wrist action to pull the mortar against the upper brick and pull the trowel away.
Now having an empty trowel, repeat the process to build up the amount of mortar in the joint.
When an area of joints has been filled, use the appropriate technique (as shown below) to give the required finish.

Step 3:
Pointing Finishes

FLUSH
Flush finishing can be difficult to achieve due to the irregularities of most mass-produced bricks. This is achieved by drawing a strip of wood about l 2mm wide, 6mm thick and l 00mm long along the joints after the mortar has started to go off.

HOLLOW KEY
Hollow key – is formed by pulling a suitable curved or round shaped piece of metal (i.e. tube or rod) along the joints. This is probably the easiest finish for a new DIYer to achieve.

WEATHERED
Weathered finishing throws off rainwater and is considered to be fairly durable but it is difficult for a DIYer to achieve a good finish.
The joint is made by drawing the blade of a small trowel, tilted slightly inwards at the top, backwards along the joint, the top edge of the trowel being in contact with the underside of the bricks above the joint being struck.
For vertical joints, the edge of the trowel is in contact with one of the side bricks and is inclined by the same amount as the horizontal joint. Keep the direction of the vertical strikes the same all over a wall, otherwise it may look peculiar.

RECESSED KEY
The mortar needs to be racked out to a consistent depth from the face of the wall and then the face of the mortar is pressed back firmly using a metal jointer tool or a piece of wood. A tool known as a ‘chariot’, which is designed to recess the joint evenly, can also used.
Generally this finish is not recommended for external brickwork as water will collect in the recess.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

SPECIAL BRICKS

Achieve fantastic brickwork easily with Buildland. These popular special shaped bricks have been selected for builders to accomplish great results quickly and easily.
Speak to a customer advisor about Everyday Specials today.

Frost resistant and suitable for most brickwork applications.
Specially designed for the job, so no cutting is required.
A range of other fittings and shapes are available to complement Everyday Specials, speak to your stockist to find out more.

HOW TO MIX CONCRETE AND MORTAR

Different jobs require different mixes. Depending on the job you are undertaking you may need to include additional materials to give the mix a specific characteristic. These materials are lime, plasticiser, cement pigment, water proofer and frost proofer.

Step 1:

Mixing by hand
Position the spot board on the ground not too far from where you will be using the mix. Use a shovel to heap the ingredients onto the spot board in the ratio required for the mix; care must be taken so as not to overload the board.
Use a shovel to turn the heaped ingredients over until they are mixed thoroughly. When you are satisfied that the ingredients are well mixed, create a hollow in the centre of the pile. Gradually pour enough water into the hollowed-out centre to produce the correct consistency. It is best to add the water gradually to avoid pouring in too much and making the mix too wet. This is not an exact science as, if the sand is wet from being stored outside, you will not need as much water as if it was dry.
With the water in the hollowed-out centre, carefully push the sides into the centre with the shovel, turning the mix over until you have the correct consistency.
Concrete & Mortar Mixes
The following mixes give the ratio of cement, lime, sand, and coarse aggregate for different types of concrete and mortar mixes used in DIY. The proportion indicates the ratio by volume, usually a shovel-load. If greater accuracy is required in the mixing to maintain the strength or colour throughout, use a bucket to measure out the quantities.
In some of the mixes below, lime has been included. However, this can be replaced with a plasticiser if you prefer.

For laying bricks, blocks and pointing (Estimated quantities)
• 1 Cement
• 1 Lime
• 5 Builder’s Sand

Step 2:

Landscaping Mortar Mix
For laying Paving Stones and Patio Slabs (Estimated quantities)
• 1 Cement
• 4 Sharp Sand
Mix with water to produce a consistency that is stiffer than the general-purpose mortar above.

Step 3:

Concrete for foundations

Foundations for an extension (Estimated quantities)
• 1 Cement
• 1 Sharp Sand
Mix with water to produce a consistency that is stiffer than the general-purpose mortar above

Foundations for garden walls (Estimated quantities}
• 1 Cement
• 5 Ballast
Mix with water to produce a consistency that pours easily.

Step 4:

General Purpose Concrete
Concrete base for slabs or a garden shed (Estimated quantities}
• 1 Cement
• 2 Sharp Sand
• 3 Coarse Aggregate

Mix with water to produce a consistency that should pour easily.
Alternatively, another general-purpose concrete mix is:
• 1 Cement
• 4 Ballast
Mix with water to produce a consistency that should pour easily

Step 5:

Render Mix
Undercoat for plaster or an exterior coating (Estimated quantities}
• 1 Cement
• 1 Lime
• 6 Plasterer’s Sand
Mix with water to produce a consistency that allows the mortar to stick to a trowel when turned upside down.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO BUILD A GARDEN WALL

Building a free-standing garden wall is really satisfying and can improve and secure your garden. Sometimes garden walls can need some extra strengthening – for instance, if it’s a retaining wall that’s holding back heavy earth, or if it’s a particularly long wall or if it’s attached to your house. Our guide will help with all of these wall building and repair techniques.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Step 1:
Attach lines to the inner nails on the profiles (the ones marking the edge of the wall). Then hold a spirit level upright against these lines and mark the outer edge of both skins of brickwork on the concrete. Join the marks using a length of timber as a straightedge.

Step 2:
Next, place a trowel full of mortar on the footing at the corner or end of line mark for the outer skin. Drag the point of the trowel towards you through the mortar, making a furrow in the centre. Then lay your first brick, frog (indented)-side up if it has one. Level this brick along its length and across its width using a spirit level. Then compact the hardcore with an earth rammer.

Step 3:
After this, use a long spirit level to set another brick in position about This is a temporary brick which you can reposition later. Continue along the line, checking the bricks are level, until you can set the end-of-line brick in position.

Step 4:
Drive two-line pins into the ground at each end of the wall, and then stretch a builder’s line between them as a levelling guide. (If you’ve got a laser level you can use it to level from one end of the wall to the other quickly.) Next, fill in the gaps in the first course and move the temporary bricks as necessary.

Step 5:
Repeat the process to set out the first course of the inner skin. Use a builder’s square to check that the corners are true right-angles.

HOW TO BUILD CORNERS IN A BRICK WALL

TOP TIP – BUILDER’S LINE
When you’re using a builder’s line, bend a small, thin piece of card in two, wrap it around the line and rest a brick on top. This keeps the line exactly on the edge of your bricks.

Step 1:
At each right-angled corner, lay three bricks in each direction and build up the corners with a series of five or six steps. Check the height of each course with a gauge rod.

Step 2:
Use your spirit level to make sure your wall is vertical, and your builder’s square to check the corner is a true right-angle. To tie the two skins of the wall together, lay metal wall ties at intervals in the mortar. They shouldn’t be more than 900mm apart on the horizontal plane and 450mm apart on the vertical. (English and Flemish bonds)

Step 3:
Check your steps are lined up by holding a straightedge or spirit level against the sides of the wall. When you’ve finished the corners, you can build the straight sections. Push two-line pins into the vertical joints at each end of the wall, then stretch a bricklayer’s line between them as a guide to level the top of the second course. Lift the line as you finish each course and fill the join between the two skins with mortar as you lay them.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO PUT UP A FENCE

Tools needed:
• Fence panels
• Fence posts
• Fence post supports
• Spirit Level
• Tape measure
• String
• Claw hammer

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways
unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Step 1:
Choose the right type of fence
First look at the size and design of fencing that suits your garden and your needs. There’s a wide range to choose from:
• Closeboard fencing – closeboard is made up of overlapping vertical boards of timber. This is the strongest and heaviest
panel. It gives you complete privacy and is ideal for boundary fencing.
• Overlap fencing – this is made from overlapping horizontal timber boards. It’s a cheaper fence that offers high levels of
privacy.
• Picket fencing – a stylish way to break up your garden or provide low borders whilst maintaining the view from your
garden.
• Palisade – you get both visibility and good security from this traditional picket-type fence.
• Trellis – use trellis on its own as open screen fencing or as a decorative panel on top of a solid fence.
• Varnish brush
• Weedkiller
• Exterior Wood Preserver
• Sledgehammer
• Saw OR Power Saw
• Screwdriver OR Electric Screwdriver

Top Tip:
One of the things neighbours argue about most is the boundary
between their properties – where it lies and who’s responsible for its
upkeep. If you’re unsure, check your title deeds. You can get a copy
from the Land Registry. ‘T marks’ on the plan point in the direction of
the owner who must maintain the wall, fence, or hedge.

Step 2:
Choose the right posts
Decide if you want wooden or concrete posts – there are pros and cons for both. You also need to decide whether you want to set them in
concrete or use post supports. Post supports are metal containers dug into or fixed onto the ground.
Concrete posts ensure you have a good strong fence, but they do need a
fair bit of work to put up.
Wooden posts are easier to handle, but as they’re buried in the ground,
there’s a slightly higher risk that they’ll rot.
Metal post supports deal with some of these problems and they’ll help
you put up a fence relatively quickly.

Step 3:
Calculating the post lengths
Decide on the height of your fence and you can work out the length of the posts to buy.
If you’re burying wooden posts in concrete, you’ll need 8ft (2.4m) posts for a 6ft (1.8m) fence – i.e. your posts are 2ft
(0.6m) longer than the fence height.
If you use post spikes or bolt-down post sockets, you’ll need 6ft posts for a 6ft fence.

Step 4:
Calculating the number of panels
Fence panels are nearly always 6ft (1.8m) wide.
Measure the length of the area being fenced. Divide the length by the width of the panel – example: for a 36ft fence,
36ft   6ft = 6 panels.
You’ll also need the same number of gravel boards to place at the bottom of each panel.
Add one more fence post to the number of panels needed so you have enough posts to support both ends of the fence.

Step 5:
Preparing for the job
Before you start, clear away vegetation, and treat the area with weedkiller.
Most fence panels and wooden posts are pre-treated to prevent rot and insect attack. But it’s a good idea to treat any
sawn end with an all-purpose wood preservative.
Use a string line and pegs to mark out where the fence is going. Mark the position of the first post.

Step 6:
Using metal spikes as support
First, it’s important to check the location of any water pipes or power cables. If you’re unsure, talk to your local council.
Make a pilot hole with a metal spike, rod, or bar. Place a piece of scrap timber into the socket of the metal spike. With a
sledgehammer drive the spike into the pilot hole until the top of the socket is level with the ground.
Stones and hard ground can make it tough to drive the post in exactly vertically. Use a spirit level as you hammer the post
in to check it’s staying vertical.
Buy 600mm spikes for 4ft fences and 750mm spikes for anything higher.
Alternatively, you can bolt sockets with flat square bases (bolt-down post sockets) into concrete.

Step 7:
Fixing your posts in concrete
The holes for your posts should be three times as wide as the post. So, for a 4in post the hole will be at least 12in wide.
The holes should be 2ft deep.
Following your string line, dig a hole for each post with a post spade or a post-hole borer
So, you don’t have to lift a heavy panel into position when you move to the next post, use a wooden batten cut to 6ft as a
guide.
With the post in place, ram broken brick or stone hardcore into the base of the hole to support the end of the post.
You can mix your concrete fresh but it’s easier to use a bespoke concrete mix such as Postcrete. Normally, you half-fill the hole with water and pour the powder mix on top, but check the bag instructions.
The concrete should be just above ground level. Trowel the surface smooth, sloping the concrete away from the post to let
water run-off.
Check the post is vertical on two adjacent sides with a spirit level. Then prop it up with one or two timber battens to hold it
in position while the concrete sets.
Premixed concrete sets in a few minutes, so work quickly. Go along the fence line, making sure the posts are aligned with
each other as well as being upright.
Leave the concrete to harden for at least an hour before attaching the fencing panels.

Step 8:
Fixing the fence panels
You’ll want to keep the fencing panels off the ground to prevent them rotting. Do this by adding treated gravel boards
along the bottom or leaving a gap of at least 100mm under each panel.
Screw the panels to the posts using two or three U-shaped post clips per post. Use stainless steel screws to prevent rusting.
If you’re using wooden posts, when the panels are all in place trim the tops of each post so they’re all the same height. Then
screw on a post cap (drill a hole in the cap first to prevent splitting).

Step 9:
Fencing on a sloping step
If your fence is on a sloping area, still keep the panels horizontal. Fill the angled gap under each panel by cutting a gravel
board to fit it or building a low retaining wall directly under the fence.
This will make your fence look ‘natural’ and level, especially if it runs alongside your house, garage, or an outbuilding.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury
howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance
with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO PAINT A FENCE

Tools needed:
• Plant garden ties
• Garden canes
• Sandpaper
• Exterior wood paint primer
• Exterior wood paint preserver
• Exterior paint
• Fence paint brush
• White spirit

• Plastic sheet
• Fence cleaner
• Safety goggles
• Mask
• Ladder
• Protective suit

Step 1:
Firstly, make sure your plants and vegetation are protected by covering them in plastic sheeting. If required trim back any of
the foliage to give yourself space to work.

Step 2:
If any plants are still resting on the fence panels and cannot be covered by plastic sheeting or cut back, then pin them back temporarily using plant ties and canes.

Step 3:
Start to prepare your fence panels by removing any old nails or screws sticking out of them, any hanging baskets or decorations and any other objects that may be in the way. Then sand down any rough areas or splinters sticking out of the panels to ensure they are as smooth and flat as possible to assure a better finish.

Step 4:
Apply a layer of primer to all the panels and let it dry completely, this will give a better finish to the result and increase the life of your paint.

Step 5:
Next use a large brush to paint the fence panels with your selected colour; use horizontal strokes for horizontal panes of wood,
and vertical strokes for vertical panes of wood. Following the direction of the timber grain will give you a better, smoother finish
and allow you to get all surface area on show covered much easier.
Apply the paint fairly liberally, making sure there’s enough to fully penetrate the timber, while being careful not to leave drips.
Start at the top and work your way down – this way you can catch any drips. If your fence is constructed from lap panels, make sure there are no drips escaping down the other side of the fence. Alternatively, you can use a specially designed spray paint
or a spray gun which can paint an entire fence in just a few minutes and makes it easier to paint evenly.

Step 6:
If you’re using a sprayer, check you haven’t missed any areas. Use a brush to make sure you paint the small spaces between
panels and posts.

Step 7:
If required apply a second coat of paint to the panels, but most good quality fence paint generally only need one coat.

Step 8:
Remove all plastic covering from your plants and vegetation and any temporary plant ties and canes you used. Make sure you
wait until the paint has completely dried so that they don’t get paint on them as it may be damaging to the plant.

Step 9:
Clean your brushes as soon as you finish to preserve them for future use. Oil-based paints are thicker than water based, so they require white spirit to clean to make sure all paint traces are removed. Using white spirit will also ensure a better and easier clean-up process.

Safety advice
• Avoid eye splashes by wearing protective goggles and wear a disposable suit to protect your clothing, unless you have old
clothes you aren’t worried about staining.
• Always wear appropriate gloves making sure they are suitable. For sanding wear tough cloth ones, for water-based paints
use impermeable gloves, and for solvent-based products use gloves that are solvent-resistant.
• Make sure you wear a dust mask when prepping the fence to prevent inhalation of the dust.
• It may also be necessary to wear a respiratory facemask when using some paint products so always check the
recommendations on the packaging.
• Use step ladders safely when painting high areas. Make sure there are no slippery substances at the bottom of the steps.
Wear suitable shoes and take care when climbing and working on the ladder.
• If you get wood paint on your skin, wash with warm soapy water straight away and if you get paint in your eye wash with
clean, warm water until all the paint is removed.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.
Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury
howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance
with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO BUILD A STONE GARDEN WALL

Preparation:
A stone wall could be part of your landscaping project, or you could just want to make a more interesting boundary wall. A decorative stone wall can really add personality to you garden whilst being a functional essential. Use our guide to add some foundations to your project.
Lay the footing as you would for a brick wall. The minimum width of a double-faced freestanding stone wall is 450mm, and your footing should extend by 1 20mm on both sides. You’ll need to mark the footing to point out the line each face of the wall will follow.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Step 1:
Sort through your pile of stones and pick out some likely corner stones (or ‘quoins’). If there are no obvious ones, you can shape a stone by chipping it with a bricklayer’s hammer or a stone axe. But make sure you wear your gloves and safety goggles when you do this.

Step 2:
Put mortar onto the footing and set a quoin at each end of it, on the marked lines.

Step 3:
Carry on filling in the line of stones between the two ends. You can use a mixture of stones (they don’t all have to be the same height).

Step 4:
Build up the corners and ends first, as you would if you were laying bricks. Use a spirit level to ensure the quoins are vertical. Next, stretch a level line from one end of the wall to the other, 300mm-400mm above the footing. Move the line up the wall as you build – using it as a guide until you reach the finished wall height, which must be level.

Step 5:
Work on one side of the wall up to a height of no more than 500mm, then go to the other side and build that side up roughly level with the first. You can use large stones (known as ‘jumpers’) if you like, which will change the height of the course. There’s no need to work from one end to the other.

Step 6:
Fit metal wall ties no more than 900mm apart on the horizontal plane and 450mm apart on the vertical plane. Fill the centre with mortar and small off-cuts of stone as you go.

Step 7:
If you want to cap your stone wall, there are various ways you can do it – including using slab or even brick. One of the most popular methods is ‘cock and hen’ capping, where you alternate upright large and small stones, which are usually held in place with mortar. Before the mortar is completely dry, scrape away any surplus with a trowel and brush the stones with a medium-soft banister brush.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO BUILD A BRICK PLANTER

Preparation:
Brick planters are an ideal place to grow plants that need different soil conditions from the ones in your flowerbeds. A raised planter is also easier to reach if you find it difficult to crouch or kneel at ground level and is just four low brick walls built in a square or rectangular shape.
Like any brick or stone wall, a planter needs a solid foundation. But rather than digging separate footing trenches, it’s easier to lay a 150mm-deep concrete slab base under the planter that extends 100mm beyond each wall.

Step 1:
Lay the first course of bricks on a 15mm bed of mortar and use a long spirit level to check they’re level.

Step 2:
To make sure that water drains away easily, leave a series of gaps or weep holes
in the mortar in the first course of bricks. One every second or third brick should be plenty.

Step 3:
Lay the remaining courses of bricks. A good height for a planter is ab u 600mm (any higher and the walls might be pushed out of shape by the soil). • ·1sh off by laying coping stones, then let it dry for at least a week before y u lant anything.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO BUILD GARDEN STEPS

Preparation:
If you want to construct garden steps that are built into an earth slope, you can use a whole range of materials – from bricks to concrete slabs, timber to gravel, and concrete to large flat stones. The design really depends on the type of material you’re using, the gradient and the length of the slope.

Step 1:
Mix a mortar using four parts sharp sand to one part cement. Build the first riser on the concrete footing using two skins of stretcher bond bricks. Remember to keep checking they’re horizontal with a spirit level. Then leave the mortar to dry for two hours.

Step 2:
Fill behind the riser with hardcore – it should extend beyond the back of the slab when you lay it.

Step 3:
The hardcore should rise slightly towards the back of the step. You can do this by using a spirit level and laying 10mm of shim across the front of the step.

Step 4:
Lay a continuous bed of mortar on the riser and hardcore and position the slab for the first tread on top of it. The slab should overhang the riser at the front and sides by about 40mm. Place the spirit level along the front edge to check the step is in line. If you’re laying two slabs side by side, make a pointing mortar with three parts sharp sand to one part cement, and spread it on the edge of the first slab before you lay the second. This’ll make it easier to fill the joints.

Step 5:
Use a spirit level and 1 0mm shim to check the treads have a slight fall towards their front edge. Then fill all the joints with mortar.

Step 6:
Next, build the next riser on the first tread. Check its depth is the same as the first and make any adjustments to the horizontal joints. It’s very easy for slight errors to occur, so it’s a good idea to check each riser against the overall height of the flight. You can find this out by measuring from the top guide peg with a spirit level and tape measure. Then you can lay the slabs of the next tread.

Step 7:
Carry on building the steps, checking the tread lengths are right. Then place a long spirit level or straightedge on the front edge of the treads to check they’re in line. You can bank up the slope on either side of the steps with earth for planting, or you can grass it instead.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO PLAN AND LAY DECKING

Tools needed:

• Decking
• Screwdriver OR Electric Screwdriver Drill
• Wood bill bits
• Varnish brush
• Tape measure
• Decking oil
• Safety goggles
• Gloves
• Spirit level
• String
• Weed control fabric Paving slabs Decking screws Wood glue
• Saw OR Power Saw

Step 1:
Planning your decking
Planning is really important when building a deck, so the first step is to make a rough sketch of your decking design. You could also lay out battens to mark the edge of your planned deck to see how it will look.
Decking kits offer a simple, ready to go solution for adding a deck to your garden.
When you’ve decided on the extent of your deck, draw a scale plan of the area. Mark on outside house walls, wastewater soakaways, air bricks, manhole covers, door openings and any trees or other obstacles.
Make sure the top level of a deck attached to your house wall is at least 150mm below the damp proof course (DPC). That way you’ll be complying with Building Regulations.
Allow for access hatches or cut-outs in the deck around drain inspection covers and make sure you don’t block any air bricks.

Step 2:
Measuring your area
From your scale plan, calculate the area of your deck in square metres. Each pack of decking shows the area it covers. Divide the area of your deck by the area covered by one pack to see how many packs to buy.
Work out how many posts and rails you need. If you’re unsure ask for assistance in store, and make sure you bring your deck plan with you.

Step 3:
Preparing the ground
Use pegs and string to set out the deck perimeter. Then clear all turf and vegetation from the area and firm down the ground beneath.

Lay a deck fabric over the earth to prevent weeds growing up through the deck. You can peg the fabric or weigh it down with concrete or paving slabs.
The framework for a deck should be laid onto concrete foundations rather than directly onto the soil. You can lay down concrete for this but it’ easier to use concrete paving slabs.
If laying slabs, arrange them in a grid pattern with each slab positioned about 1400mm from the next. These will support the timber joists that hold the boards.

Use a spirit level to make sure the deck gently slopes away from the house. For every metre of deck there should be a 10mm drop.
If you have poor drainage or bad soil conditions, the joists should be supported on stronger concrete bases instead. Make these by digging 300mm square holes 300mm deep and filling with concrete. Allow the concrete to dry.
Next, lay squares of bitumen DPC membrane over the concrete or paving slabs before putting down the deck timbers.

Step 4:
Building the framework
Form the outer frame of the deck with joists (150mm high x 50mm wide). These rest on top of the levelled concrete or slabs.

The joists are fixed together with 100mm rustproof screws and external wood glue. Use one screw on the t p edge of the joist and two screws on the sides.
If you’re attaching the deck to your house, screw the first joist to the wall but put plenty of stainless-steel washers
the joist and the wall to leave a gap of at least 10mm. Use a spirit level to make sure the outer frame is flat and sloping slightly away from the house. Use extra pieces of DPC to make any fine adjustments.

Next fill the outer framework with the long joists, spaced at 400mm intervals and screwed to the frame. These joists should be fitted at right angles to the finished deck boards, just like an internal floor.

Step 5:
Fixing the deck boards
Fix short lengths of deck boards – or ‘noggins’ – at right angles between the joists to strengthen the framework.

Once all the joists are in place, the finished framework should be completely rigid. Now you can lay the deck boards, starting next to the house.

Lay about six boards at a time, leaving spaces between boards of 5mm (approximately the width of a fixing screw). This is essential for ventilation and allows for expansion in wet weather.
Use purpose-made stainless steel or galvanised screws so your decking isn’t spoilt by rust stains.
Pre-drill your screw holes to reduce the risk of splitting the wood.
Fix the ends of each board first, then screw the centre of the board to every joist in between.
If the deck is wider than the length of deck board being used, you’ll need to stagger the boards. Remember to join boards over a joist. Cut to size where necessary.

Things to consider when building decking:

Variations
You don’t have to stick to straight lines when you’re decking. Boards con be fitted diagonally or cut to create herringbone patterns (this is usually more wasteful than using straight boards).
If you have a raised deck that’s over 60cm high, then you must have a deck surround or railings around the edge to make a safety barrier.

Preserving your decking
Deck boards are pressure-treated with a long-lasting preservative treatment, but the colour will fade after a few months.
You can either leave your deck to age naturally or treat it with an exterior penetrating oil that soaks into the wood rather than sitting on the surface. These come in various timber shades and can be brushed, sprayed, or rolled onto the boards.

Maintaining your decking
Once a year check and repair any loose boards, protruding screws and bits of splintered wood.
You should also wash the deck annually with a deck cleaning solution to remove dirt, algae, and moss. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and take care not to get the solution on nearby plants or shrubs.
After cleaning, re-treat the deck by applying a further covering of deck oil to all the exposed surfaces.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO STAIN A DECK

Tools needed:

• Paint brush
• Decking brush
• Masking tape
• Protective gloves
• Decking stain

Step 1:
Clean the decking
Make sure the surface of your timber is clean, sanded, and ready to absorb the stain. Wear gloves to avoid staining your hands and use masking tape to cover any areas that you don’t want stained.

Step 2:
Mix it up
Give your stain a good stir. This ensures all the pigment is evenly mixed throughout the tin and will help give you a consistent finish

Step 3:
Edges first
Using a paintbrush, start by staining the edges and the corners -this is known as ‘cutting in’. Use long brush strokes along the grain of the wood.

Step 4:
Fill in the rest
Continue to stain the rest of your deck area. If your decking has a smooth surface, you can use a lamb’s wool applicator. Remember to work towards on open edge so you don’t paint yourself into a corner

Step 5:
Finishing up
When you’re finished, remove the masking tape before the stain dries. Allow at least 24 hours before walking on your deck.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.se.gov.uk

HOW TO PAINT AND MAINTAIN DECKING

Tools needed:

• 2” Paint brush
• Decking brush
• Decking broom
• Wood preserver
• Decking stain
• Wood cleaner

Why should you paint your decking?
Painting your decking will refresh and revive it, while protecting it against the elements, like UV rays which cause wood to grey over time and rainwater which creates splits and cracks.
Check the forecast as you should only paint your decking in dry conditions. If it’s too cold the paint won’t dry, and you obviously don’t want it to rain for a few hours after you finish. If it’s been raining recently, wait for the wood to dry before painting it.
Which paint should you use?
To prevent rot and decay bare or untreated wood should be pre-treated with an appropriate wood preserver.
Decking oils penetrate the wood to nourish and replace the natural oils lost through weathering. They’re ideal for new or newly restored decking as they enhance the natural colour and beauty of the wood.

Decking stains give decking a richer colour than oil finishes, great if you want on opaque look. Stains can be used on new or weathered decks.

What tools do you need?
Treat your timber using a traditional block brush, plus a 2″ paint brush for the hard to reach areas. For fast protection with a great finish, we recommend using a decking broom or applicator.

Preparing your decking
We recommend the following steps when preparing your decking:

Cleaning and preparation to remove the effects of weathering are essential when looking after any deck.
Make sure mill scale is removed from new decking, so wood stain or oil can penetrate effectively into the wood pores. To do this, use a wood cleaner & pressure washer or scrubbing brush.
Use a suitable cleaner to remove any algae and make sure surfaces are dry and free from dirt.
If you’re using chemicals make sure they’re completely removed and washed away before you start to paint.

Painting your decking
Once your decking – and the weather – is dry you’re ready to apply your first coat. Use a decking applicator or brush to spread the stain or oil with the grain of the wood.
Use a brush to make sure you paint the small spaces between the gaps. When the first coat is completely dry you can apply your second coat. For better, longer-lasting results use two to three coats on your deck.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO BUILD A SHED

Tools needed for building a shed

• Shed
• Shed base
• Step Ladder
• Gloves
• Safety goggles
• Spirit level
• Tape measure
• Exterior wood preserver Sealant
• Sealant gun
• Wood screws
• Drill
• Screwdriver OR Electric Screwdriver Wood drill bits
• Felt nails
• Craft knife
• Claw hammer
• Varnish brush
• Batten

Step 1:
Planning the shed base
The base is key for garden sheds. They need to sit on a hard, level base – or the shed frame will distort, and the door and windows won’t open properly.
Here are the different kinds of base you can get:
Treated wooden beams on flattened hardcore or shingle.
An interlocking plastic base system laid onto firm, level ground.
Concrete slabs on a level bed of sharp sand.
Concrete laid on hardcore.
The two concrete bases should be slightly smaller than the external dimensions of the shed.

Step 2:
Treating with wood preservative
Before you put your shed together, treat all the wooden parts with a preservative. Most garden sheds come with a factory-applied base coat, but you should boost that protection with at least two coats of good-quality preservative.

Step 3:
You’ll need a helper
The individual parts of your shed aren’t that heavy but they’re awkward for one person to handle. It’s best if you get someone to help you.

Step 4:
Treating with wood preservative
Some garden sheds come with the floor panel already attached to the joists. Others will need some assembly.
You need to lay out the joists under the floor sheet. The spacing depends on the specific shed you’re building. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Fix the first joists under the long outer edges. Then put the remaining joists evenly between them. They can then be fixed in place.

Putting the shed floor together

Step 5:
Putting up the walls
Mark the exact centre point of each wall on its bottom edge. Do the same on the shed floor. You can now make sur they’re centred exactly when you put up each wall.
Stand the gable end on the base and line up the centre marks.
While your partner supports the panel, check that it’s vertical with a spirit level. Then use a temporary holding batten – a scrap piece of wood not provided – to hold it in place.
Don’t fix the wall panels to the floor until the roof is fitted.
Next, position and fix a side panel (sometimes called a ‘bock gable’) to the gable end panel with three countersunk screws.
You’re now ready to odd the second side panel (or ‘front gable’) and the door panel in the same way.

Fix the roof support bar before the roof

Roll out the felt & make sure there’s a 50mm overlap to the front, back & sides.

Adding the side panels

Step 6:
Fitting the roof
If your shed has a roof apex support, it must be fixed in place before the roof panels. Roll out the roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50 mm overlap oil around.
Some garden sheds come with a roof support bar. You must fix this in position before the roof panels ore positioned.
Next, nail the roof panels in place – follow the manufacturer’s instructions here. Make sure there’s on equal and parallel overlap at either end.
Roll out the roofing felt from front to bock. Leave a 50mm overlap to front, bock and side.
Secure the felt with clout headed felt tocks at 100mm intervals.
With a sealant gun apply mastic sealant to the outside corners of your shed. Then fix the four corner trims with 30mm nails.
Now put on the fascias and finials. Predrill 2mm holes to avoid splitting them. Nail them through the felt into the shed top frame with 40mm nails.

Step 7:
Fixing the windows
Put in the plastic sills between the window frames. Slide each sill into the tongue and groove cut out.
Next put the window cover strip in position and ftx it to the vertical framing with three 30mm nails.
Then place the glazing sheets into the window rebates from inside your shed. Make sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sits on the outside of the sill.
From inside the shed, fix the window beading (top and sides only) with 25mm nails. The hammer will slide against the glazing sheets as you drive home the nails.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.se.gov.uk

HOW TO PRESSURE WASH A PATIO OR DECKING

Tools needed:
• Pressure washer
• Broom
• Detergent
• Hose
• Hose adaptors
• Safety goggles
• RCD Adaptors
• Plastic sheet
• Fence cleaner
• Safety goggles
• Mask
• Ladder
• Protective suit

Step 1:
Clear your patio completely by removing all furniture, ornaments, and pots.

Step 2:
Using a broom, brush away any loose debris such as leaves and dirt.

Step 3:
Connect your hose and ensure that water is running freely before you begin. Allow water to flow through the machine to remove any air locks. Please note the hose should be a minimum of 7.5m in length and 1/2 inch thick. If you’re using a hose reel, this
should be fully unwound and free of kinks to ensure a constant water flow. To connect your hose, you will require two universal connectors and a tap adaptor for your garden tap.

Step 4:
Connect your pressure washer to the mains electricity supply then turn it on to pressurize the system.

Step 5:
Before you start cleaning your patio, you could apply detergent to the surface to help dissolve dirt and make the patio easier to clean. Some detergents also have special properties that will help reduce the build-up of dirt going forwards and will also protect your surfaces from weather damage. Specific detergents are available for stone, wood, and vehicles, each with specially designed formulae to suit the task.

Step 6:
Some dirt and organisms like lichens can be hard to remove using a standard lance or patio cleaner. Most pressure washers
come with a rotary pencil jet nozzle that can provide up to 80% more power. By switching to this lance, you can ensure even the most stubborn dirt can be removed. It is important to note that the increased power of these lances means they should only be used on hard surfaces such as stone or brickwork, sensitive surfaces such as wood or vehicle paintwork may be damaged if cleaned with this type of lance.

Top tips:
Jet washing a block paved driveway is not always the best way to clean it as, by its very nature, it will remove the sand
that binds the blocks together. If you do use a jet washer on your driveway, the sand needs to be replaced before any
substantial traffic is allowed on the driveway as sand binds the blocks together as a mass.
If you’re using an extension cable, it is advised that this should be no longer than 10 metres in length and have a constant
rating of 13 AMPS.
Always wear safety goggles and use a special detergent to help remove the grime.
Take care when using the washer near plants.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only an Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO INSTALL A GATE

Preparation:
Gateposts for light gates should be about 100mm square and 610mm longer than the gate’s height. For heavier gates (over 1 .2m high or wide) the posts should be thicker and at least 760mm longer than the gate height. It’s always best to check the manufacturer’s specifications.
You’ll need to treat wooden gateposts with preservative before you install them and set them in concrete as post spikes don’t give enough support. Where possible, try and choose fittings that have been japanned (lacquered) or galvanised to stop them rusting.

Step 1:
If your gate posts haven’t been weathered, you’ll need to cut the top to a slant so that rainwater can run off. Try to do this first, using a sliding bevel to mark a 20-degree angle from the top of the post.

Step 2:
Continue the line square down the face of the post and saw neatly along it. Then paint the cut edge with wood preservative. If the wood is untreated, you’ll need to paint the whole post.

Step 3:
When you’ve decided which way you want your gate to open, lay it face down on level ground. Place the posts either side with their tops 50mm higher than the top of the gate and leave a 5mm gap either side of the gate so it can open and close freely. Use two timber lengths to raise the gate slightly, so it sits in line with the gateposts. You can adjust this as necessary with timber off-cuts or wedges.

Step 4:
Place the hinges into position on the back of the gate. ark the screw positions and drill one pilot hole. Test it by driving in a screw to check the drill bit is not too large, then drill the remaining pilot holes.

Step 5:
Next, screw the hinges in place using galvanised screws. If you find it tricky to position them accurately on the post, wait to fit them and the latch until you’ve hung the gate.

Step 6:
Drill pilot holes for the latch screws, then screw the latch into place. Don’t forget to allow a 5mm gap between gate and post when doing this.

Step 7:
Brace the gate and posts with three lengths of timber to make sure the construction is solid. Use the braced gate to mark the position of the post holes.

Step 8:
Use a spade or post-hole borer to dig your post holes roughly a spade and a half wide and deep enough to leave a 50mm clearance gap beneath the gate so it can open freely.
You can check this is enough by laying a spirit level on the ground where the gate will open and level the ground if you need to. In soft ground you’ll need to dig a trench between the post holes about 300mm wide and 200mm deep and fill it in with concrete.
This will help stop the posts from being pulled inwards by the weight of the gate. Lower the gateposts into the holes, using a spirit level to check they’re in line.

Step 9:
Use timber props to hold your gate and posts in position. Mix the concrete, then concrete the posts into the ground. Remember to slope the surface downwards to direct rainwater away from the wood.

Step 10:
Let the concrete set for 48 hours before you remove the props and brace.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway
laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury
howsoever caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance
with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO INSULATE YOUR LOFT

Tools needed for plasterboard:
• Loft insulation
• Protective gloves
• Tape measure
• Croft knife
• Loft lamp
• Knee pads

Step 1:
Calculate how much loft insulation you need
When it comes to saving cash, this is a no-brainer. The thicker your loft insulation, the more energy and money you save. The recommended minimum thickness of 270mm con cut your heating costs by a healthy 1 5%. Follow the simple steps below to see how much loft insulation you’ll need.

Depth
Measure the depth of your current loft insulation
Subtract your current depth from the recommended minimum of 270mm to find out how much new insulation to buy. You may need more than one layer of insulation to get the right depth.

Area of your loft
Measure the size of your loft: Total area required = length x width

Joist gap
If your existing loft insulation is level with the joists, skip this section and go straight to Section 2: insulating your cold-water tank.
But if your current insulation isn’t level with the joist, carry on with this section:
Most joist gaps ore between 400mm and 600mm wide. Measure the distance “6etween your joists to work out what type of loft insulation roll you need.

Total rolls needed
Use our loft insulation calculator to work out the number of insulation rolls you’ll need.

Safety guide:

Make sure your loft is safe to work in before you start! Use crawl boards to avoid damaging the ceiling below. Lay electrical wiring over the top of the insulation. Leave a 75mm gap between the insulation to event a fire hazard. It’s also a good idea to wear a dust mask, goggles, and gloves during this job.

Step 2:
Insulating your cold-water tank

Before you insulate your loft, we suggest you insulate the cold water tank first. That’s because loft insulation prevents heat escaping through your loft • so there’s a chance the water in the tank could freeze.
You can use ordinary loft insulation. Wrap it round your tank and tie with string to keep it in place.

Step 3:
How to fit your loft insulation

Clear your loft to make installation easier.
Using crawl boards, start at the furthest corner. Unroll the first length so it fits between the joists or sits on top of the existing insulation.
If you have existing insulation between your joists, place the new insulation on top to the height of the joists. Then position your second layer across your joists to the minimum 270mm depth.
Press the insulation down lightly as you move across the loft. But don’t compress it – this will make your insulation less effective.
When one roll finishes, begin another by butting the two ends together. Make sure there are no gaps. When you reach the opposite end of the loft, cut the material. Leave enough ventilation space from the eaves.
It’s also worth insulating your loft hatch as heat can escape from it. Cut a piece of insulation material to the size of your hatch and secure the material to the back of it.

Step 4:
Loft storage

If you need storage, we suggest you build a small platform near your loft hatch using loft panels. Keep this to a minimum to ensure maximum energy saving. You only need a 100mm insulation depth when you lay loft panels.
Simply slot the loft panels together and secure them to the joints. The end of each panel should meet near the joists to strength.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO PLASTERBOARD

Tools needed for plasterboard:
• Drill
• Tape measure
• Spirit level
• Bolster Chisel
• Craft knife
• Screws
• Plaster scrim tape

Step 1:
Start by measuring the sheets so they’re 12mm less than the floor-to-ceiling height.

Step 2:
Mark the cutting line on the ivory side of the plasterboard, then cut along using a croft knife and straight edge.

Step 3:
Turn the plasterboard over and fold the end along, then cut to snap the board. Use a croft knife to cut through the paper bocking.

Step 4:
Get someone to help you attach the plasterboard to the frame – it’s much easier with two people. Wedge a bolster chisel at the foot of the board, slide a wood off-cut underneath and use your foot to press down and force the board hard up against the ceiling. Make sure you fit the plasterboard with the ivory side outwards.

Step 5:
Fix the board in place with 32mm plasterboard screws at roughly 150mm intervals, 5mm away from the edges. Corry on fitting whole boards in the same way as before, cutting them to fit above the doorway and against the adjacent walls. If you also have o skirting board, you’ll need to notch the plasterboard to fit around it.

Step 6:
Remember to finish off the joints with plasterboard tape, to give your wall a smooth finish.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO REPLACE YOUR TOILET

Tools needed:
• Grips
• PTFE Tape
• Pan connector
• Wall plugs and screws
• Isolation valves
• Adjustable wrench
• Screwdriver OR Electric Screwdriver
• Masking Tape
• Old towels/cloths
• Pipe Detector
• Masonry Drill Bits
• Lubricant
• Drill

Step 1:
Disconnect your water supply
Isolate the water supply to the toilet either locally or at the mains.
Flush the toilet to empty the cistern.
Disconnect the water feed from the inlet valve.

Step 2:
Remove your existing toilet
Remove any fixings and gently pull the toilet away from the soil pipe.
Carefully dispose of the toilet as there may still be some water in the pan and cistern.

Step 3:
Prepare your new toilet
Assemble the toilet according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
To ensure it doesn’t have any leaks, pour a couple of litres of water into the cistern, leave it to stand (ideally outside) for an
hour and then check all the seals.
Position the newly assembled toilet in front of its final position.

Step 4:
Connect the new toilet
Insert a new pan connector into the soil outlet pipe, being careful not to damage or dislodge any seals or gaskets. A
lubricant can help here.
Gently slide the toilet outlet into the connecter by pushing the whole toilet back and into place.

Step 5:
Reconnect your water supply
Connect your water supply to the inlet valve via a 15mm isolation valve, ensure that PTFE tape is used on all the
compression joints.
Open the inlet/isolation valves to fill the cistern, then test for leaks by flushing.
If there aren’t any leaks fix the toilet into position with the fittings supplied

Disclaimer:
All installations will be different. These instructions should only be used as a general guide. Please always refer to the
manufacturer’s instructions. If you are in any doubt whatsoever about how to carry out any of the steps, please seek
professional advice.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO INSTALL COMPOSITE DECKING

Tools needed:
• Circular Saw
• Power Mitre Saw for bevelled edges
• Jig Saw
• Hand Drill – 3mm
• Impact Driver
• Tape Measure
• Carpentry Square
• Spirit Level

Step 1:
Make sure the ground is even and flat Lay out the DURODUAL WPC joists with a span of approx. 400mm apart. These are estimates only. For more complex designs and features, a
drawing to scale may help you to determine how much material will be required.

Step 2:
Before installing the first decking board, fix the starter clips onto each joist end ensuring each screw is fully fastened. Push the first decking board tight into starter clips and simply click into
place.

Step 3:
Once the first decking board is in situ, fit special Clip B with side hole into the middle section of decking. Ensure the toothed side goes into the groove and secure by screwing through the side
hole. Apply Clip A to each joist. Always use Clip A at board ends and use 1 per board.

Step 4:
Tighten the screw through the side hole of Clip B to the Decking.

Step 5:
Slide the next decking board into the clips and into position. Slightly lifting the adjacent board at an angle will make this process easier.

Step 6:
Fox the decking by screwing through the top holes of the clips.

Step 7:
Repeat steps 3-6 for each decking board until decking insulation is complete, tightening the row before each time as you go. Make sure the gap between cross
sections of decking boards is no less than 3mm. Make sure there is at least a 10mm gap between decking and walls for expansion and contraction.

Step 8:
Attach the fascia’s by screwing them into positions A and B as shown in the diagram Above to complete the job. Please ensure you screw in the way shown – position A
screws into the decking and position B screws into the joist.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only as Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury caused because of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk

HOW TO FIT PAVING DRAINAGE

Tools needed:
• 12.5mm Shim
• Concrete mixer
• Float
• Trowel
• Hammer
• Measuring Tape
• Wooden Pegs
• Nails
• Straightedge (1m)

Step 1:
You can fit a drainage channel in the centre of a paved area. The paving either side should slope towards the channel edges, and the channel should
have a fall of 1 in 80.

Step 2:
Put a length of timber the required distance from the paved surface (in this case, slightly wider than the guttering used to mould the channel). Then
hammer in wooden pegs at intervals and nail them to the timber. The channel should run at right-angles to the fall of the paving. Use a one metre-long
straightedge and a 12.5mm shim to set a fall of 1 in 80 along the drainage channel.

Step 3:
Next, mix some concrete using four parts mixed aggregate to one part cement. Then fill the channel with the concrete to a level slightly lower than the edge of the timber,
and smooth it with a float.

Step 4:
Press the guttering into the wet concrete to leave a clear imprint. After this, remove the guttering and smooth any ridges in the concrete. Use a spirit level to make sure the fall is set at the correct angle.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway
laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all reccomendations/instructions are given as guidence only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury
howsoever caused as a result of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance
with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO CREATE A PLASTIC DRAINAGE CHANNEL

Tools needed:
• 12.5mm Shim
• Concrete mixer
• Float
• Trowel
• Hammer
• Measuring Tape
• Wooden Pegs
• Nails
• Straightedge (1m)

Step 1:
Run your channel at right-angles to the fall of the paving with a fall of 1 in 80. Use a 1-metre-long straightedge and shim of 12.5mm to do this. Dig a
depth of 100mm along the edge of your patio and fill it in with concrete. Put the first section of channel on the concrete.

Step 2:
Use waterproof sealant to fill the specially designed recess in the end of each section of channel. Then go on to fit the next section. Remember to keep checking the fall and repeat all the way along your required run. You could cut the channel with a panel saw if you need to.

Step 3:
Build up the concrete on the outside of the channel, sloping away from it. Then fill the joint between the channel and the paving with dry mortar. Finally, fit metal grating over the top.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways
unless stated. Ensure driveway laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all recommendations/instructions are given as guidance only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury
howsoever caused as a result of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance
with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.

HOW TO BUILD A MANHOLE COVER

Tools needed:
• Chisel
• Hammer
• Rubber Mallet
• Power Saw
• Trowel
• Mortar
• Masking Tape
• Measuring Tape
• Gloves

Step 1:
If you’re making a concrete path or drive, use a skeleton type of manhole cover. You install it in the same way as a recessed cover, but the tray is filled
with concrete that’s reinforced by a metal grid.

Step 2:
Bed the manhole cover on concrete, making sure that the lip is 2mm to 3mm below the level of the finished paved surface. Smooth the concrete around
the edges with a trowel, taking care to leave enough room for the depth of the paving and its mortar bed.

Step 3:
Lay the paving right up to the cover, so you keep your pattern.

Step 4:
Lift out the tray and cut the paving to fit inside it. Then remove the paving, spread a bed of mortar over the whole of the tray and set the paving in the mortar. Cover the keyholes with masking tape while you fill in the paving joints.

IMPORTANT: All Buildland products are designed for domestic landscaping use only. Products are not designed for use on driveways unless stated. Ensure driveway
laying guidelines are followed.

Please note that all reccomendations/instructions are given as guidence only and Buildland Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury
howsoever caused as a result of following them. Please refer to our website for our full terms and conditions. Always work in a safe manner in accordance
with current health & safety legislation. For advice on this, tel: 01527 519 444 or visit www.hse.gov.uk.